Postcard from Kenya: Ol Donyo Lodge
Kenya is already more than I could have imagined. My first safari camp; my first game drives. Ol Donyo Lodge, a Relais & Chateaux property, is part of Great Plains Conservation, which operates safari camps in Kenya, Zimbabwe, and Botswana. “Ol Donyo”, located where the Chyulu hills meet the Amboseli Plains, means “large mountain” in Maasai. On clear days, a snow-capped Mt. Kilimanjaro can be seen in the distance.
My guide, Dan, met me at the end of the runway, a dirt track lined with a few white rocks and a wind sock. He told me that whenever a plane is scheduled to land, he has to get there early, to chase the Thomson’s gazelles off the runway. As I surveyed my unfamiliar surroundings, I could see a vast flatland of yellow grass, with a few large mounds in one direction, and a range of rounded blue hills in the other. We drove for a few minutes in an open vehicle, that looks just like you’d imagine. The canvas sides are rolled up and two rows of back seats are raised above the driver’s level. Dan opened a basket to show me a massive Canon camera with telephoto lens and a pair of Steiner binoculars, which are to be mine during my stay. I’m not sure I can lift the camera, let alone take pictures with it.
Within minutes, Dan stops the truck, invites me to get out, and proceeds to serve French-pressed coffee and home-baked muffins from the tailgate. Afterward, he points out the animals we can see….oryx (straight horns), impala (curved horns), the aforementioned Thomson’s gazelle (distinct black markings), and eventually zebra, ostriches, and giraffes.
We drove for another fifteen minutes on dirt roads (and I’m using the word “road” loosely”) to the entrance to the Lodge, where we were met by a chorus of cheering Maasai and the innkeepers, Graham and Savannah (perfect name!) He’s a 4th generation Kenyan of Northern Irish descent. Her family also has deep roots in Kenya. They both studied abroad and eventually met at “uni” in the UK. I’m the only guest, which is more than a bit weird. Covid-related cancellations are still hurting their business even now, but they’re hopeful that July/August bookings will actually materialize and things will begin to shift in a positive direction.
The lodge is situated midway up a hillside with amazing views far across the plains. There’s a waterhole just below the camp…the only water source for 30 km. Starting early in the morning, and throughout the day, 3 elephants, giraffes, zebras, impalas and more come to drink. There’s a stationary viewfinder on the ledge terrace and you can also walk down to a hidden bunker for an up close waterhole view.
From my ground-level viewpoint, I was reminded of the opening scene of the Broadway musical, “The Lion King”, in which all the animals gather to celebrate the birth of Simba. Human “puppets”, in masks and headdresses, mimic the unique movements of each creature. Now, having watched the real animals gathering by the water hole at sunrise, I realize what perfect representations those puppets were.