Postcard From Kenya: Serian Ngare

We flew into the airstrip at Mara North Conservancy and were met by our Maasai guides, Steve and James, who quickly became part of our fam “family”. On safari, it’s not unusual to spend 6-8 hours each day with your guides, so they are absolutely critical to your experience. In addition to encyclopedic knowledge of animals, birds, and plants, safari guides are also accomplished bartenders, photographers, and fire starters who can navigate seemingly endless territory without the benefit of roads, maps or compass. They are able to locate and “see” game at great distance, with what they laughingly call “Maasai Eyes”. Trust me, it’s real!

What’s immediately evident is the scale and scope of the landscape and the wildlife in the famous Maasai Mara, which is where the whole idea of “safari” began after World War I. We’re greeted by roaming herds of antelope, Topi, giraffes, Grant’s Gazelle, and zebra.  We stop and wait for small herd of elephants to cross the road.  A hippo waddles its way back to the Mara River, which is not in view, but we’re told is tucked against the Escarpment beyond the distant trees.

After an informal game drive, which practically happens any time you climb into the ubiquitous Toyota Safari Cruisers, we arrive at Serian Ngare. (Ngare is Maasai for “river”). A narrow suspension bridge spanning the Mara River, creates a dramatic first impression of the camp. We crossed one at a time and arrived on the other side where we were greeting by the entire Serian team and a delicious lemon-lime-ginger concoction. Round One was alcohol free; Rounds Two and beyond were spiked with your choice of gin or vodka. 

The main lodge is a picture from my “Out of Africa” dreams.  White, slip-covered sofas, colorful batik pillows, vintage wildlife photography, antique steamer trunks and a long dining table, set with mix and match dishes and African-print napkins.  I expected to be greeted for dinner by Karen Blixen and Denys Finch-Hattan in their best safari linens, with gin and tonics in hand and a gramophone playing Mozart. Soon enough, there was a beautiful buffet lunch served, featuring fresh vegetables grown on property, beef tenderloin wraps, and a magnificent cheese tray. Local Cheeses were served at nearly every meal at every camp. It was always fresh, varied, and delicious.  

Let it be known that after the twice-daily game drives, eating and drinking takes up most of your remaining daytime hours. Meals may be served in the Lodge, at “surprise” locations around the property, or in the bush, but no matter when they are served, the food is world-class and the wines, mostly from South Africa, are excellent. In addition to game drives and other activities which differ by camp and location, all meals, snacks, drinks, and cocktails are included in the price of your room in a per day basis.

Dietary restrictions are taken in stride and alternatives are prepared with the same care and attention as the “regular” meals. Before Covid, guests at Serian eats the same food together at one long table. The other 3 camps I visited offered a choice of entrees at every meal. Lunch and dinner are multi-course affairs that often include choice of entree, plus amazing soup (it’s winter in Kenya), salad, cheese, and dessert. 

After lunch, we were shown to our raised tents, each with mosquito-netted beds, wide terraces and outdoor showers. Situated on bluffs overlooking the river, there were sweeping river views and pods of barking of hippos outside our zippered suites. There was. Barely time for a quick lie-down before afternoon game drive, which typically begins at 4:15 and lasts through the glorious Mara sunset. Our first drive at Serian featured up close and personal encounters with a lone cheetah and a regal male lion we named “Mufasa”. 

As the sun was setting behind an escarpment with forms the wester border of the Mara, we returned to camp. Cocktail Hour was across the river at the original Serian Camp, where we met the managers’ young daughters, Charlotte and Harriett, ages 3 and 5. As we watched the girls playing, it was impossible not to think about the amazing life they’ll have, growing up in the bush with the Maasai Mara as their backyard!

We crossed back across the river for dinner at the Ngare Lodge. Just as we sat down, a sudden thunderstorm hit, knocking out the power and “forcing” us to dine by candlelight.  Pure Mara Magic.  We ended our first day at Serian with hippos bellowing from the river, lots of red wine followed by local liquour specialty, amarula, and eventually, went to sleep to the sound of raindrops on canvas.